Basque Country, Cantabria and ferry home

This is a big catch up from the long boat journey.

BASQUE COUNTRY

We said goodbye to our Mel Gibson themed hotel room and left San Sebastian promptly.  Arriving it Zarautz the surf was slightly smaller than the previous day but still good and clean.  I paddle out and got some nice waves including a long left.  Unfortunately I also managed to lose my finger splint (the expensive one I got made at Bupa for surfing).  I had some back up splints in the car so that is what I used so I could go out for another session and surf more.  In the sun and nice waves it was pretty epic.

I met Maria back on the beach.  We checked out the little castle which had a restaurant run by a local celeb chef but unfortunately it was fully booked until 3.  So we carried on to Getaria along the coastal road a short hop away.  This was a great little town.  We found a locals place where we had a menu for 10 Euros each and included 3 courses and Basque cider.  The main course was grilled fish which is the specialty of the town.   Feeling quite full we had a wander down towards the port.  On the eve of the vote for Scottish Independence the support as evident everywhere.  This was clearly a very Basque town.

We continued along the coast road until Zumania before getting the motorway.  We passed a couple of nice surf spots en route.  The motorway to Mungia was not so great as the bendy motorways required concentration. 

We found the rural BnB quite easily thanks to Maria chatting to the locals.  We arrived there and were let in by a labourer doing some work.  The room was pretty nice and the area rural.  We headed off to Bakio for a surf.  The waves were quite a bit smaller and breaking close to shore.  Unfortunately the session was over pretty quickly as I almost snapped my board at the nose and was all creased.  Ironically this board came from Bakio and nearly ended its life there.  We finished up in the bar for a few drinks and some food.

BILBAO TO SANTANDER

The next day we headed early to Bilbao and parked up near the Guggenheim.  We had a walk around checking the architecture, football stadium and centre of town.  We had some great pintxos on one of the streets with many bars- this included sea urchin which was great.  We headed off to watch a bit of the Red Bull bridge diving competition which was going on by the Guggenheim.  However needing to get to Santander we didn’t hang around too long.

There was a bit of traffic leaving Bilbao and also getting into Cantabria.  However we made good time passing some scenic points on the motorway.  The entrance to Santander is hardly glarmourous especially as I headed straight into the industrial area.  At the second attempt I drove by memory to the place which repaired my board last year.  Turns out the board is quite serious and I will definitely need some professional help!  Unfortunately I could not get it done in time- although I know they do a good job and the 40 euro they quoted me is much cheaper than equivalent in England.

Post board stop we headed to Liencres beach where I had a surf.  Waves were quite small and weak but as the last surf of the trip I needed to make the most of it.  Maria enjoyed the beach which is in a national park and has plenty of interesting rocks.

We headed to our motel style hotel and checked in, before going into Santander. After parking underground we wander around the town. In the first bar we had some pintxos.  This was followed by some amazing octopus at another restaurant.  All was topped off with the best ice cream (Regima which I first found in Santander).

FNAL DAY AND FERRY HOME

The next day was our last day of the trip.  We headed to some prehistoric caves.  There was a little Museum and a walk around one cave with a few paintings.  The rest of the caves were off limits.  We then headed to the beach at nearby Suances for a nice swim in the scorching sun.  Not many waves to speak off so just a swim.

This was followed by a picnic lunch in the park at Liencres.  We then spent most of the rest of the afternoon at Eroski hypermarket stocking up for the boat and on Spanish food.  One big bill later we headed to the ferry terminal.  We were quite early but by no means the earliest.  We enjoyed watching the various types of people including one biker who looked like Santa Claus.

We have now been on the boat nearly 24 hours.  Most of the food and alcohol we bought has been consumed.  I managed to catch the Man City vs Chelsea game.  We have wandered round the deck, seen some films in the cabin and had a long sleep.

Bayonne-> San Sebastian

We decided to stay an extra night at La Villa and used it as a base to explore Biarritz area.

The day started with a trip to Biarritz.  Nice weather and walk along the sea front, but not much else to do there.

Headed to Anglet post lunch.  No shortboardable surf so went for a swim.  Kind of regret not rying to rent a long board.

Headed to Guethary for  a quick walk a long the sea front there.

Next day was Spain day.  I opted for the scenic route and the traffic was pretty horrendous up to San Jean da Luz.  However after that the route became scenic and lived up to expectations.  Getting in to San Sebastian was easy as was finding our rather expensive Hotel (the Astoria).  All the rooms are themed by film stars and we have the Mel Gibson room.

A wander around San Sebastian- including trip up the mini mountain and good food (tapas and ice cream) followed.  I went back to the hotel to grab my board for a surf at Zurriola.  Waves were pretty small.  The session was ended by a large thunderstorm which meant getting a bus back with  lot of old people.  Once the rain had cleared we headed in town for a pintxos dinner and drinks.

The enext day Maria was not feeling so good- so I headed to Zarautz alone to surf.  Waves were really good- Hurricane Edouard had delivered the goods.  Did get quite big a times and was hard work but well worth the short journey.  Weather as so nice I hung on the concourse for a bot

I tried to surf later in the day in Zurriola- but in the end proved to be a waste of time as most the waves jut closed out.

Finished the day with more pintxos and beers.  There is this craft ale called Gross which is brewed locally- highly recommended.

Brittany->Bordeaux->Hossegor->Bayonne

Brittany

Full day in Brittany involved oysters by the golf (when they finally arrived) and a tour of Vannes.

This was followed by a swim (sadly no surf) at the big beach near Plouharnel.  Dinner at Auberge Saint Anne was indeed superb.  A gastro treat.

Brittany to Bordeaux

A leisurely morning and lunch in sunny Brittany.  A long drive to Bordeaux- how is it only meant to take 4hours.  This involved a traffic jam at Nantes and lots of motorway.

A stop at Buffalo Grill for dinner- first time at one of these restaurants which aren't too bad at all- certainly good value.  However finding the Hotel Premiere class was not great especially as a major Bride (of Aquitane) was closed.  Needless to say the Hotel Premiere class was not great- we got there at 1 in the morning and left prompley the next day.

Bordeaux and Dont take girls camping!

Saw a few sites of Bordeaux before heading to Dune de Pyla.  Stocked up in huge Leclerc (hardly any people in the Arcachon store).  I like big Leclercs.

Dune de pyla was quite impressive, you get a great voew of the forest.  After that it was onwards to Biscarosse.  Quick surf check revealed continued flatness, not much swell showing yet.  I was curious to see this place but to be honest it was not interesting,

We go to Seignosse before dark to camp.  I had even booked an expensive campsite.  Maria did not like camping.  It was not good. Dont take girls camping!

Hossegor- waves

Finally got in the water.  It was quite sizey first thing and clean.  Unfortunately my fitness and abundance of surfers including good locals meant I did not get my share of the best ones, but had some fun ones on the inside.

After a stock up on a Gateau Basque nd checking itno a hotel- headed back to Seignosse.  This time for a session whoch was a bot onshore but still some alrite waves.

Headed into town in the evening for a few drinks.   Some of the people out were quite strange to say the least.

Hossegor Bayonne

Pretty small gutless waves in the morning from a dying swell.  No oysters either as all the places by the lake were full.

Headed early to Bayonee and checked into the comfort of the nice hotel.  Also had a wander round Bayonne and good pizza for dinner.

Paris, Paris-> Brittany

Headed to Musee D’orsay.  Much better than I expected- although the building is one of the impressive parts.  It was also free!

Walked towards the Effiel Tower.  Lunch ended up being at  brasserie, which for me was one of the worst ever.  This veal escolope arrived with pasta it was like something from a motorway service station.  Desert was from this specialist mereingue place which was much better.

Effiel Tower was really for pictures for Maria, which included crossing the river to trocadero

This was followed by heading to the arc d Triumphe, down the Champs-Elysee, past the Louvre and onto towards Chatlet and Pompidou after stopping at one of the bridges.

Finally in the evening we ate by far the best food in Paris, which was at an Auvergne restaurant.  Although it was touristy the food was epic and the meat so good that in the end had to order wine.  Even if the service was slightly prickly, it made up for the below food par of so far.

Next day headed to Vincennes for a walk around the park followed by lunch at Bistrot Dagorno.

Took the Metro towards the Louvre- the first time I had ever visited.  Thanks to the tip from my Mother we went through the shopping centre and did not have to queue at all.  I was free thanks to being below 26.  Saw various ancient stuff and this Mona Lisa.

Afterwards we headed to the banks (of the Seine) for a drink with one of Maria’s friends. 

After walking for a while without finding much restaurant wise we headed bback to the Effiel Tower so Maria could get her night photos.  We finaly arrived back late at Nation and I was starving.  Fortunately a Bistro was still serving and the food wasn’t bad either.

Today was more of a driving day- onwards to Brittany.  Generally an easy drive although in such nice weather it was not great to sit in a car without air con.  The weather was so nice that on arrival at the house jumped into the see and had 3 swims.

Paris 1 and drive from London

Left London with plenty of time, which was just as well as navigating my way through Croydon was a bit of nightmare.  What an awful place, I would hate to live there.  So far out, yet so terrible.  I eventually joined the A23, which eventually became the M23.  This was fairly quick, although the road signs had my worried as they said the A23 was closed- which thankfully it wasn’t.  In the end got to Brighton quickly, then it was not far to Newhaven.

Didn’t see much of the town, but is a standard grotty port town.  The ferry was pretty knackered out hulk with the Transmanche branding on it.  Cabin was a bit musky and knackered but in the end it was a short crossing.  After a bit of deck time watching departure I bedded down.

I slept, but not for long as the journey was short.  I almost questioned the point in having a cabin.  Having said that we arrived in good time.

It was a pretty smooth journey pre morning daylight across and through and I was able to get to Roissy to pick up Maria in good time.  Equally good was the journey to the hotel which was smooth as anything, helped by knowing where I was going.  This is the advantage of staying somewhere you have been before.  Less good was parking in the hotel car park box, whereby I put a bash on the front of the car.   It was a tight space.

After this we headed to Bastille and the Place de Vosges.  This was a tad touristy and we ended up eating a bit of a disappointing lunch at a Brasserie.  When I say disappointing I had a steak tartar which you can’t really go wrong with, but Maria’s duck was pretty average.

Later headed to Montmartre and the Sacre Coeur. However in the process, we got off the tube Barbes Rochechouart which views with Croydon in awfulness.  The area was full of police and dodge.  To be honest I didn’t really like going up the Sacre Coeur, it was full of bloody tourists.  As was the rest of Montmartre. 

After walking down Pigalle, past some pretty grim looking street workers we headed to Butes Chammont which was really good.  It is one of the few things in Paris I had never done so was good to go.  As was the sunset.

I decided I wanted to go this bar called La Fine Mousse, which I heard about on some blog.  Basically it services good French beers (hard to believe in a land of s*** beer).  Unfortunately it was difficult to find so after having drinks in 2 bars, then a crepe we got chatting to someone with internet pointing us towards the bar.  In the end we did find it and it was worthwhile.  Tucked away and local but great beer and a nice bar to match.  If you don’ drink beer they even served decent cider (Breton style).