The morning started with my last blog update, so here is the rest of the day. Went first thing with Dan for a coffe at the expensive place. After that grabbed a pain au chocolat for post surf and put the gateau basque on order for my mother (and me). Then it was time to say goodbye to Dan who was heading down towards Spain.
I headed to Les Estagnots where we checked earlier, after checking solid la Grav. Surf was cranking- so I grabbed the step up board and paddled out. It was a mental paddle ou, I am proud of myself for making it out back. Didn't catch any barrels unfortunately but got a few waves. Headed back into the car park for my well earned pain au chocolat and weetabix- car park life.
Later I headed out for ses number 2. The tide had dropped and the waves were really barreling. I took some wipeouts including a smash in the sand, which was a bit off putting. I got my best wave putting a few turns together. I got out for a pee then back in, but again the tide had pushed and the paddle was brutal on my tired arms. Got some more waves- but frustrating I just seem to pick close outs. Then was getting caught in a rip so got out the water to avoid too much hassle with that thing. Waves were heavy again today- hit the sand a few times.
I was planning to get oysters- in fact pulled up to the place, but then got a txt from natwest informing me of a new payee which I did not recognise. Paranoid I headed back to Hossegor- grabbed an orange juice at the bar we were in earlier. To my horror the wifi did not work. Went to another bar but they were such pricks. Instead headed to Salon de The where I got a nice coffee, with good service and finally wifi. Realised the payee was not a problem.
Headed back other to Hoss beach and checked around la Grav. Swell had dropped and wind had swung a bit onshore. Looked less intimidating so I paddled out. GOt a few waves but it was so fast and heavy that I just striaifght lined bombed like a kook. Kids were doing airs and stuff and I realised that I was not as good as them, as well as risking board and body in this shore dump wave.
Got out, had a chat with the parents before heading to Leclerc to get dinner. Couldn't find any water in Hoss so headed back to les Estagnots for a bit to rinse my gear and chilled in the car park for a bit. Now nursing a beer back nr the main hoss square- writing this. All seems quite quiet. May stay in Hoss tomo or head down to Anglet. Swell dropping right off- but has been great to days of sun, surf, getting on my step up board even if I haven't got barreled or caught the wave of my life.
I headed to Les Estagnots where we checked earlier, after checking solid la Grav. Surf was cranking- so I grabbed the step up board and paddled out. It was a mental paddle ou, I am proud of myself for making it out back. Didn't catch any barrels unfortunately but got a few waves. Headed back into the car park for my well earned pain au chocolat and weetabix- car park life.
Later I headed out for ses number 2. The tide had dropped and the waves were really barreling. I took some wipeouts including a smash in the sand, which was a bit off putting. I got my best wave putting a few turns together. I got out for a pee then back in, but again the tide had pushed and the paddle was brutal on my tired arms. Got some more waves- but frustrating I just seem to pick close outs. Then was getting caught in a rip so got out the water to avoid too much hassle with that thing. Waves were heavy again today- hit the sand a few times.
I was planning to get oysters- in fact pulled up to the place, but then got a txt from natwest informing me of a new payee which I did not recognise. Paranoid I headed back to Hossegor- grabbed an orange juice at the bar we were in earlier. To my horror the wifi did not work. Went to another bar but they were such pricks. Instead headed to Salon de The where I got a nice coffee, with good service and finally wifi. Realised the payee was not a problem.
Headed back other to Hoss beach and checked around la Grav. Swell had dropped and wind had swung a bit onshore. Looked less intimidating so I paddled out. GOt a few waves but it was so fast and heavy that I just striaifght lined bombed like a kook. Kids were doing airs and stuff and I realised that I was not as good as them, as well as risking board and body in this shore dump wave.
Got out, had a chat with the parents before heading to Leclerc to get dinner. Couldn't find any water in Hoss so headed back to les Estagnots for a bit to rinse my gear and chilled in the car park for a bit. Now nursing a beer back nr the main hoss square- writing this. All seems quite quiet. May stay in Hoss tomo or head down to Anglet. Swell dropping right off- but has been great to days of sun, surf, getting on my step up board even if I haven't got barreled or caught the wave of my life.
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