Surfing in Brazil

Surfing in Brazil
I left Portugal to go to Brazil mid to late November.  It was clear that I was not chasing waves soley- in fact when I left Portugal the surf was forecast to be perfect for 2 weeks straight. I knew there was a strong chance of this when I booked, but going to Brazil was a once in a lifetime opportunity.

General
Straight up you do not go to Brazil purely for waves.  It is not a world class surf destination like Indo. Mainly beachbreaks- kind of European style- think SW France. However there are quality waves to be had- the highlight of my trip was Matadeiro, but no denying the quality of Saquarema.  So it does offer the chance to surf decent waves, has an amazing beach culture (probably the best in the world), see awesome sites/ cities as well as one of the most significant surf scenes in the world.  Brazil also has a strong surf culture and is having a massive impact on world surfing- just think Adriano de Souza, Gabby Medina, Alejo Muniz, Felippe Toledo and Miguel Pupo to name a few.


THE SURFING
I only visited three places along the coast.  I never made it to Itacare and Fernando do Norohna which are also major, famous surfing places in Brazil.  In fact there is a whole uring coastline mostthe length of the country- other cities like Recife stand out.  So this is  a summary of what I saw and found.

Florianapolis
I had heard good things about this place-as much for the nightlife as the surfing.  But the surfing also.  It turned out to be good.  I surfed 4 places- Just next to Barra da Lagoa- start of Mocambique, Praia Mole, Matadeiro and Joaquina.  As metnioned it was summer but there were always sizeable waves when I was there.

Barra da Lagoa stretch was mainly close outs (although hollow and a bit powerless)- had the bonus of having dolphins jump out next to me- un real!

Matadeiro was the best- a really scenic place, with world class waves.  The first time I went there was hollow beach breaks people getting pitted everywhere.  Not too much of a paddle out.  Overall my standout break from Brazil- truly awesome.  You probably need a car to get to it.  Once there follow the other surfers round river and headland.  It will be better than it looks from a distance.

Praia Mole was a standard beach break with some hollow sections.  Cool place, paddle put is a nightmare.

Joaquina- first few times I saw this was blown and did not look special  This is the most famous spot- they have big contests here. Paddle out can also be hard going.  Quality wave- gets crowded by the rock.  This also had shelter from N winds.  Nice sections, there are barrels to be had going down the middle when conditions agree.  Secure parking is a problem from what I hear.

Rio
The WCT stops at Rio.  I think this is as much marketing as anything else.  But there are waves to be had.

Ipanema, Arpoador and Leblon- none of these really impressed me.  There was an 8ft at 14 sec swell when I was there which is big, esp for this time.  WInds were dodgy.  I founf generally these beaches closed out a lot and were quite dirty.  Famous Arpoador is crowded, agro and closeouts- kind of a surfing hell.  Got a few waves but never impressed me.  Having said that there ware plenty of locals who surf fast and will rip these waves along here.  Personally I think these beaches are better for strolling, taking in Rio beach culture, staring at things and working out on the many pull up bars.

Barra posto 5 and 6 were exposed breaks that I could get a 50real taxi from Rio to go to.  It will be bigger than central- not crowded- in fact a bit eerie in the morning.  The main problem was backwash.  Quite steep waves, nice drops but backwash and rips running through the middle are a problem.  With regards to this place and the Rio city breaks- the sandbanks were not good.  I have seen awesome pictures fom all places so it could be the timing of my visit

Praia da Recreio and this area.  Best waves I found in Rip.  Stayed at Recreio in a hostel.  The banks seemed to be good, even with wind this place could handle it.  Was generally impressed- but it will be crowded.  there is a longboard wave called Macumba next door- never surfed there.  You are also close to Grumari and Pirahnia- these are meant to be quality.  i tried Grumari once , but there was really too much wind, hence went back to Recreio.  Despite being close to national park the area is more dodgy than I imagined.  It is also one hour and a half from Rio by bus.

The 'surf bus' from Rio along the coast never worked out for me.  I tired calling and emailing- no response.  However when i was walking along the beach I saw it once- quelling rumours that it does not exist anymore.

Saquarema
Another very famous spot in Brazil- calls itself Brazil's surf capital.  That might be a bit far as commercially there is not much there.  They do have a fair share of contests though.

The waves- yes they are good.  Again I do not think the banks were as good as they could be, but there were some nice waves.  I stayed at Ituana which is the spot in Saqaua.  There is the point- which is always bigger than forecast.  In fact I found it quite challenging rips and hot locals.  Some of these locals were absolutely shredding.  It is the only long wave I saw in Brazil- but you have to work it.  it was very rippy and bouncy when I was there.  There is also the beach which has fairly steep, hollow waves think hoss.  I enjoyed surfing here.  The other end by the church is a bit sheltered and can handle some wind.  This is also where surf school and restaurants are.

When I arrived I chatted to a local.  He asked me if I had brought a good wetsuit- I had my 3/2.  He was right to ask- the water is cold.  I had already read this- it is due to very deep water.  There is a similar phenomenom at Joaquina in Floripa but it is stronger here.  I surfed on 31 degree air but the contrast with the water could not have been stronger.

BRAZILIAN SURFERS

Dickheads in the water- no question. They 110% deserve the terrible reputation. Expect to be dropped in on, snaked, shouted at. They make great competitive surfers but treat every surf session like it is a comp. Brazilian surfers will paddle for every wave like it must be caught. The only way to get waves sometimes is to join them and shout people out. I am not saying all Brazilian surfers are twats- I have good friends who are Brazilian and very polite. There were also some freidnly ones- but the general impression is not good. If ever a Brazilian came to the UK and behaved like that, I think there would be a lot of people ready to deal with them.

EQUIPMENT

Surfboards are cheap in Brazil- I had heard this already.  You can get really cheap boards, new as well although I am not sure if they were the best quality.  I was offered a Brazilian board new cheaper than the Spanish I bought but did not like the shape.  Overall I think it makes sense to buy a board- but you may get ripped off in touristy areas or if do not negotiate hard.  

TRANSPORT

Brilliant.  Although having a 5'10 made it easier, to travel with a surfboard in Brazil is straightforward. Airlines do not charge, nor do you have to put with oversize luggage at check in.  No problem on coaches, city buses and also taxis.

How to get 2 surfboards through as one

Airline charges are expensive, coffin bags are expensive too.

Solution:

You will need:

2 boards in their bags, padded in the usual manner, with fins removed

Duck tape- at least a roll

Bin/ rubble sacs

Scissors

Patience

1. Place the smaller board on top- rocker up
   
2. Duck tape several times around the tail, middle, middle to nose and nose
   
3. Tape one handle down- you don't want it to look like 2 boards
   
4. Bin bags- took three in my case- nose, tail and one cut out warpped around the middle.
   
5. Duck tape so not loose- will also hold the board together
6. Put a lot of strips at the tail- see below
   
7. Voila!

Bin bags hide two boards- you can always say it protects from the dirt

Watching Waves and Leaving Lisbon

Last night didn't amount to much.  I headed to Santos but was too early for much to happen.  SO tried the chorizo bread and soup place that I had been unable to go to the night before because of the queue. Th Portuguese guy I had hung out with said it was unmissable.  Actually I did enjoy it, despite being sober and also having an earlier dinner.  Got a taxi back promptly so was in bed just after 12 (early by Lisbon standards).

Actually woke up kind of later than intended at 9.  Meant a last surf session was pretty much off the agenda.  Just as well because it took a while to wrap up my 2 boards (see separate post).  Got to my car to find this- someone parked right on top of me.

Did the usual drive down the N6 along the Lisbon coast.  Easterly wind today so Santa Armao was big enough but blown.  Carcavelos, big and clean but not many out.  No one out at the point and reef- massive.  Big waves all the way down.  But my destination pre flight was around Cabo Rosa which is more exposed- I wanted to see huge waves.  And I guess I did.   Was aa bit of a drive around stupid Portuguese one way systems.  However waves were crashing on the rocks up to Guincho.  Got loads oof photos around Cabo Rosa- although this is a crazy surf spot nobody was out there.  It was quite a site.

Headed back to the airport along the A5 toll road (1.35 Eur).  Returned the car after having to call the guy to meet me.  Had a beer and snack before checking in.  Now using the half hour free wifi at Lisbon airport.  Destination Heathrow- taxi supposed to be waiting for me at the other end.  Trip almost over.

Surfing Carcavelos- Again!

Had a bit of a heavy night last night- went drinking with one of the guys who works at the hostel and some of his friends in Lisbon.  Ended up getting back at 5:00 and felt a bit hungover this morning.  Ended up getting up late around 10.  

Headed up the N6 again.  There were people out at the point although it was massive and some caught some alright sections.  However I did not paddle out as it looked hard work and there were lots of close outs.  There were more people on the inside sections.  Headed to Carcavelos- had a quick surf but got quite smashed.

Was hungry and still a bit hungover so headed into Carcavelos town.  Got a steakm sandwich and p

Pastel de Nata.  The only problem was getting out of Carcavelos took ages, really confusing with a stupid railway lne in the way.  Lisbon is a nightmare to drive in.  If it was warmer  would have considered just using the train to Carcavelos.  Checked the point and reef (below).  Was still big- couple of guys on the reef- but was really a bit too big (pushing double head).

In the end went back to Carcavelos.  Was nice as no wind but still crowded.  Waves overhead and hollow on the sets.  This time I went back to the 6'4 and was rewarded with my best wave of the trip- a nice right.  Does get into waves a lot easier than the 5'10.  Still got slaughtered by the rips and smashed.

Had a big dinner of beef, sausage, chips and rice- not quite as good or cheaper as the Brazilian equivalent, but was starving- followed that with 2 Pastel de Natas.  Satisfied for now.  Heading back to UK tomo.

Surfing Carcavelos

Got up late- nearly 10 as was catching up on much needed sleep.  Had a chat with the girl on reception, we remembered each other from last time I was her.  Heade out in the car down the coast.  Same reefbreak mentioned yesterday was working.  Wind was from the North so Carcavelos was not blown  Carried on to the point.  If you read early Novemeber's early posts you will remeber the point.  It is normally a place to head on big swells.  Thios swell was so big both the point and the reef break adjacent were maxed out- no-one on the water.

Went to the pharmacy to wight my luggage.  Both boards and wetsuit come in at 12.2kg so should be okay for TAP's 20kg limit.  Surfed Carcavelos and got smashed quite a bit.  Was solid head high but the rips were a nightmare- pulling out and across.  Constant paddling was tiring with a few close out waves.  Was found out on the 5'10.  Also aggro with one local who was pissed off when I shouted him out of a wave, only to just miss it (dickhead local!).   Lots of closeouts but also good waves with people getting barrelled.

Went for lunch on the beach- tosta mista and hot drinks.  Went in for session number 2.  Got a nice left and then a really late left drop which smahed me.  Got quite crowded and current was still strong, although rips less so.  Got smashed still.  Paddled back out again only to be smashed further.  Tried not to swallow too much water at dirty Carcavelos but a bot was inevitable- fingers crossed I'm alrite.

Headed to a shopping centre out of town for duck tape and bin bags to hide two boards as one on the way back.  Caught in traffic and ots of junctions.  Driving in Lisbon is a nightmare.  But got back for dinners and beers- although had to park a way up the street.

Back to Lisbon

After a 50 minute deay, with no comunication from TAP I got my flight to Lisbon.  Managed to get 2 dinners- just as well beacuse breakfast looked a bit limp.  Slept for a large part of the flight which was good as it did not go to slowly.

Picked up hire car in Lisbon.  Then afterwards grabbed board and had a chat with the guy at the flat.  Cruised the Lisbon coastline- waves were massive, and I am not talking about the exposed spots here.  The swell was 6 metres which is unprecedented almost.  Looked at Monte Estoril (below), but access looked tricky and waves were massive.

Ended up settling for Santa Armao, a rocky point that is normally flat.  Got out the back easily, caught no waves and got out because of the pollution.  Water smelt like drain.  There were good waves, howver it was more challenging than I first thought.  Most the inside waves crash on the rock.

Leaving Rio (and Brazil)

Today was not much of a day to be honest. Stayed out late until last night- approx 4 in the morning. The crazy French guy from Floripa had ended up staying in the hostel which was quite weird, clearly a small world.

Headed into centro for the first use of the Rio metro system from Ipanema. Actually was not really that exciting. Walked around the dodgy market that I had avoided before. Picked up some football shirts and also had a snack in a local's place.

Headed back and had a wander around Leblon. Grabbed some Acai and last workouts along the beach. The weather was not so good today and the sea looked grim (brown)- made leaving easier.

 Arrived at the airport far too early. The airport is terrible its like the 3^rd World. I managed to check in and had to pay 90 euros for the surfboard, which hurt. Have not been able to sell anywhere in Brazil so it is coming home.  

Massive queue for security then another one for passport control.  Cannot emphasise how bad the airport is here.  Hardly any commerce.  Have managed a quick snack pre flight.  Thankfully I have my laptop so its not too boring at the airport.  Have 10 hour flight to look forward to.  Joys of travelling.

Crazy last day in Rio

Had a fairly short night out last night- Monday night never really that interesting anywhere so came back to get some sleep- well needed.

This morning after breakfast I was thinking of ways to spend my last full day in Rio. The weather was not really cooperating for Tijuica. A plan was hatched by another guy in the hostel to hike up one of the dos irmaos (2 bothers) an awesome mountain that makes the vista on Leblon and Ipanema beaches. It is shaped light a cone. Rumour had it that from Vidigal favela the view is truly amazing,

We headed out, me, this guy from US living in Sao Paulo, an Italian guy and two Dutch girls. We went to the bottom of Vidigal and each hailed a moto taxi up to the beginning of the passage. The moto taxis exist in the favelas as a cheap form of transport and the easiest way to navigate these crazy roads. You get a helmet, but it is a bit of an experience. The guys drive fast around bends, it is steep and pass through narrow gaps with oncoming traffic. We made it to the passage, however it was not clear initially where it was.

After asking for directions from some peole in the favela it turns out it was round the back of their house and up a steep concrete bank. Then passed across some rocks and under a fence. The hike up the hill was quite steep through kind of rain forest. We stopped at various view points including a vista of Rocinha (better than on the favela tour, see below). There were also some epric views of Sao Conardo. We carried on walking, grabbing trees through muddy patches, talking about snakes and tarantulas that inhabit these areas. We proceeded until the clearing at the top, meeting one American couple on the way. The view was stunning although you need a head for heights (which I don't really have) There is a sheer drop- you look down on Leblon, right across the city and can see the Cristo on the hill. There were a few other travellers up there, but really this is an alterntive site.

It was definitely quite a hike. We met a French couple- somehow they had done it in flip- flops, made my sandals look sensible.

Going down was faster but I had to toboggan bits of it along the rock. Once at the favela we wandered down as no moto taxi. There are quite a lot of police here as this is one they are pacifying- even one with his machine gun pointing out the car. Vidigal favela is on the up, in fact we went to see a hostel under construction (one of the guys friends runs it). Looked really good with a stunning view. We bumped into a BBC crew doing a documentary about economic growth in Rio (will be on BBC 3, approx 17^th February). We carried on down the favela passing a few established hostels, some great street art. All in all a real expereince, more than yesterday's tour.

Once out of the favela, we had a well earned coconut water. Worked out with the Italian guy before cooling off at the beach with one of the other guys. Water looked a bit suspect at Leblon today so didn't swim much. Grabbed some food and mango juice at the place nearby around 4- well earned having not eaten since breakfast. We did not even take any water on the hike which with hindsight sounds crazy, but then none of us really knew what it was going to be like. Awesome expereince, and I feel in Vidigal that we were experiencing a future sight off Rio tourism I can see this place being semi gentrified and in 10 years time being fashionable with the bohemian type holiday crowd. Just wait for some celebrity or the Guardian newspaper to go there.

Trying to sort some things out now online, like a locked bank account and Lisbon.  Last night in Rio tonight.

Rocinha

The view

2 Rios

Favela main street

A view on the way up

Copacabana, Rocinha and along Leblon

Been staying in Copacabana for the past couple of days, but generally been going down to Leblon/ Ipanema to eat in good places (sushi again) and hang out In the end for the last few days in Rio I have gone back to the hostel in Leblon s it seems to be an easy option- it is quite a safe area and I know where it is.

This morning I had a wander around Copacabana checkijg out the beach and the are because I never really got to know except through the taxi window. Also tried Bob's Burgers finally which turned out to be a bit disappointing for the price anyway. The burger was okay but it is not like some of the niche American chains.

Moved to Leblon and ended up doing a favela tour which was on my list of things to do in Rio. The people on the tour were all Brazilian exceot me so it was a bit weird. We headed to Rocinha, the largest favela in South America. Although this has had problems in the past amd has had some recently it is one of the areas with a pacifying unit. In fact it was a bit more developed than I expected. Some of the roads and inside one of the buildings were really steep. The other strange thing was a shop with chickens in cages and carcasses out the front which smelt strange- otherwise it was not any different from the area I got lunch on Friday. It was more commercial than I expected. We had a wander around through one of the streets before heading back.

Finally had a wander along Leblon, with a workout taking in some Rio landmarks in the distance. Then back to the place opposite for chicken, chips, rice and beans washed down with plenty of beer.

Surfing, bike around and up to Copacabana

Early morning quick surf at Recreio followed by breakfast.

Mission on the bike to get out cash- finding a Bradesco, my 'favourite' bank here.

Photographer session- with lift to Praihna and Grumari.  Finally checked out the wild coast.  Thought waves were not that great with the wind at Grumari, actually the best spot was by the hostel in Recreio.

Got the bus to Copacabana in the evening- less than 3 reals, couldn't get a taxi for a few blocks for that much- let alone a journey across most of Rio.  Great sushi restaurant at Leblon- very different take on sushi- we had one plate of sushi on fire for real.