Making the most of my car I got up early- had brekkie at the hostel which was quite good, with the view below. Headed to Praia Mole, checking Joaquina on the way. Paid the car park guy rather than leaving on the street. Had 2 sessions and a chat with the bloke at the car park called Gabriel who was solid. Got some alright waves- was getting used to the board so nothing too long. The paddle out was quite hard work especially toward the end when I was tired.
Eventually in the early afternoon I decided I should do more exploring. Good timing because the wind had picked up and blown it out a bit. The American girl I chatted to on the beach told me about oysters at this place called Ribeiro D'Ilha- so off I headed in that direction through the traffic. When I got there the main restaurant seemed quite busy and there was a queue- also seemed a bit weird to be solo there so I headed off down the road. Stopped at another place which was empty the people spoke no English. I got the oysters- they recommended them cooked which was weird. They served them with chilli and lime which was quite qierd. They tasted alrite but next time I think I will stick to normal oysters.
After this I went on the hunt for a place called Matadeiro- where I had heard of good waves in Southerly wind. When I got there I saw loads of surfers heading in that direction- so I figured it must be a reasonable spot. Parked the car in public- no tipping the guy before heading through the river and over the hill round the cliff. Low and behold Brazil's answer to Hossegor- hollow, fast powerful waves and guys getting barrelled. Would say it was a solid 4 foot. At first I felt I was getting found out on a 5'10. Got smashed. Was also really crowded- Brazilians are generally such dicks in the water- so agro and drops ins everywhere. Got a few short waves and was really stoked. The crowd made it challenging though. Got out and grabbed a few beers on the way out.
I have now left the hostel where I was staying in Barra da Lagoa. The reason I left was mainly because it was far from the night and I cant drive there because of the stupid zero tolerance law in Brazil. I met another guy on the bus and we headed to this Samba bar. Had a few beers before heading back early- after 3 surf sessions was truly knackered.
Eventually in the early afternoon I decided I should do more exploring. Good timing because the wind had picked up and blown it out a bit. The American girl I chatted to on the beach told me about oysters at this place called Ribeiro D'Ilha- so off I headed in that direction through the traffic. When I got there the main restaurant seemed quite busy and there was a queue- also seemed a bit weird to be solo there so I headed off down the road. Stopped at another place which was empty the people spoke no English. I got the oysters- they recommended them cooked which was weird. They served them with chilli and lime which was quite qierd. They tasted alrite but next time I think I will stick to normal oysters.
After this I went on the hunt for a place called Matadeiro- where I had heard of good waves in Southerly wind. When I got there I saw loads of surfers heading in that direction- so I figured it must be a reasonable spot. Parked the car in public- no tipping the guy before heading through the river and over the hill round the cliff. Low and behold Brazil's answer to Hossegor- hollow, fast powerful waves and guys getting barrelled. Would say it was a solid 4 foot. At first I felt I was getting found out on a 5'10. Got smashed. Was also really crowded- Brazilians are generally such dicks in the water- so agro and drops ins everywhere. Got a few short waves and was really stoked. The crowd made it challenging though. Got out and grabbed a few beers on the way out.
I have now left the hostel where I was staying in Barra da Lagoa. The reason I left was mainly because it was far from the night and I cant drive there because of the stupid zero tolerance law in Brazil. I met another guy on the bus and we headed to this Samba bar. Had a few beers before heading back early- after 3 surf sessions was truly knackered.
Hot shower
Oysters
Matadeiro
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